The latest press release email from Red Hot PR, representing Goddiva
Yesterday, a press release email pinged into the Fashion Editor at Large in-box. Its title? 'Gucci Copies.' Amazingly, the fashion company in question, Goddiva, has instructed its PR company to send out press releases promoting the fact it is copying dresses from the current Gucci collection; dresses that are in the shop right now. Goddiva even shares with us the catwalk shots of the dresses they are copying in the release! Goddiva would do well to read up on how litigious Gucci is. Only this week it was awarded $4.7 million from Guess over infringement of its G and red/green stripe trademarks, and it is stepping up its brand protection around the world as a result.
This type of email - and I get a lot of them - makes my blood boil. Bethan, Fashion Junior at Large, has even seen me pick up the phone to some PR companies to question them for the sending out of such emails. I know it sounds a bit batty, but really - they shouldn't be allowed to get away with it. It especially annoys me when the copying involves ripping-off young British and international designers who don't have the funds to hire a lawyer to defend their Intellectual Property rights.
What you see above is a blatant example of how rampant the copying of fashion designers work at high street level has become. Crazier still the brands doing it actually promote the fact. Copying is against the law. Fashion designers and brands can - and do as we see from Gucci's case this week- successfully sue for this kind of thing. Elsewhere on the high street designers' original work is being tacitly raped and pillaged and passed off as the work of the retailer - and to my mind it is getting worse by the week.
I do understand that the high street takes inspiration from catwalk and street trends for their fashion offerings, its the nature of the beast; everyone from Marc Jacobs to Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga takes inspiration from something, but really it has gone too far. Which is why I am glad the young law American law student Julie Zerbo of the fashion blog Fashion Law, which was recently covered by the Wall Street Journal, is succeeding in highlighting the problem. A few weeks ago Zerbo brought to attention a Chanel bangle, which looked very similar to one already on the record as being by young NYC based jeweller Pamela Love. After her post was picked up by Fashionista.com, Chanel withdrew the bracelet with immediate effect. It was an elegant way around a problem senior designers at Chanel probably didn't even know they had. Chanel prides itself on originality.
Last week a friend of mine who is also an editor sent me a couple of Blackberry-Cam shots of items that looked very familiar...
Seen at Karen Millen
Have you met your twin? Erdem Resort 2012 on Net-a-Porter. In fact if you type "Erdem blue lace dress" into Google, the third thing that comes up is "Erdem blue lace dress copy" and the listing takes you to Kate Middleton related sites..
Seen at Marks and Spencer
Hmm..looks familiar. Jonathan Saunders SS12 collection (photo: Catwalking.com)
Have you seen any blatant copies out there? What do you think?
It's apparently only been a four-day week but there have been plenty of happenings in the world of fashion for us to bring you up to speed on.
Vidal Sassoon styling Mia Farrow's hair (image from www.hellomagazine.com)
We begin on a sad but celebratory note with news that legendary hairdresser, Vidal Sassoon passed away this week at the age of 84. From a fashion perspective, Sassoon's impact was incredible. He is widely credited as creating hairstyles which freed women from the weekly shampoo and set. Not only were these liberating from a practical point of view, but the five point bob was the defining style which went with the mini skirts of the swinging sixties. What many may not know is that Sassoon spent much of his childhood in an orphanage. He also spent time in his teenage years as a militant Zionist, fighting fascists in London and then joining the Israeli army. His career in hairdressing affected women the world over, whether they had their hair cut into one of his styles, which still look modern today, or used his range of product. As many have already said, a life well lived.
The way it was (image from Guardian.co.uk)
A little more from Monday night's Met Gala now. Carey Mulligan is auctioning the amazing Prada fish scale sequin dress she wore to co-host the event on e-bay. All proceeds will go to Oxfam America. At the time of writing, the bidding had reached $1,025 but it is widely expect to rise steeply by the time the auction closes on Saturday 19th May.
Carey Mulligan in Prada at the Met Gala on Monday (image from telegraph.co.uk)
We showed you the gowns on Tuesday. But here are a few other pics from the Met Gala and related events which we've come across this week.
Alexander Wang with Azealia Banks, wearing one of his designs, who performed at the gala (image from http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/)
Clemence Poesy with the designer of her dress, Nina Ricci's Peter Copping (image from http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/)
Grace Coddington in Prada (twit pic by Jim Shi)
The Schiaparelli inspired place setting's at the dinner (twit pic by Jim Shi)
Alexa Chung and Karen Elson enjoying the night with Marc Jacobs (image from Marc Jacobs' twitter)
Grace Coddington has styled Prada's Broadway store to celebrate the Prada/ Schiaparelli exhibition...
Julian D'ys created the sculptures and masks for the installation
Images from Prada
If ever there were a tweet to flutter a thousand hearts (and more besides) then it came from Chanel this week: "Chanel has selected the world renowned actor Brad Pitt to be the face of the upcoming advertising campaign for Chanel No.5". Pitt is apparently heading to London to shoot this week. In Team FEAL's professional opinion, there's no better man to be the first male to promote Mme. Chanel's favourite perfume.
The picture which Chanel tweeted of Pitt
NEWGEN designer Thomas Tait has been nominated for the 2012 Andam prize, the prestigious fashion award judged by some of the most discerning names in business. They include Delphine Arnault, deputy managing director of Christian Dior; Pierre Bergé; Sarah Andelman, purchasing manager and creative director of Colette; Humberto Leon, Kenzo designer and co-owner of Opening Ceremony. Tait is nominated alongside other exciting young designers Cedric Charlier, Julien David, Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes and Nicolas Andreas Taralis. Tait told Vogue, 'If I were to win, I would show at Paris Fashion Week, which has been an unspoken dream of mine for quite some time now'. He went on to admit that he's 'a bit starsrtuck already' by the judges who will be deciding the winner. Previous Brits to win the award, which is worth £185,000, include Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon. Good Luck Thomas!
A look from Tait's very cool AW12 collection (image from catwalking.com)
Aquascutum has been offered a lifeline this week after a deal was reached with YGM, the company's Asian licensee. It means that over 100 jobs have been secured and will see the survival of the UK stores, concessions as well as the head office set-up. There are still ongoing negotiations to sell the factory in Corby with hopes for a purchase to be made in the coming fortnight.
Vogue's Fashion Features Director Harriet Quick is leaving to join new invitation only travel club, Luxup. She will become Editorial Director while Averyl Oates, formerly at Buying Director at Harvey Nichols, will be Commercial Director. In addition, Sarah Mower will be the site's London curator. Quick said "After so many great years at Vogue, I am thrilled to be joining Luxup...The global traveller is a growing force in luxury retail - just witness the environs of Bond and Mount Street. On a simple level, I'm frequently stopped for directions and advice from be-puzzled Chinese visitors. On a personal level - luxury, shopping, travel? That's a wonderful world." Quick's appointment is perhaps another sign of the trend for editorial stars moving from magazines to retail and online businesses.
Dress lust of the week, aside from the Met gowns obvs, goes to Eva Mendes in her Jonathan Saunders AW12 overblown peony print dress. Adore it with the turquoise sunnies.
Eva Mendes in Jonathan Saunders AW12 (image from telegraph.co.uk)
We told you earlier in the week that Tod's owner Diego Della Valle will be reviving the Schiaparelli brand, which he has owned for several years. There have been bubbling rumours that John Galliano, out of a job since his departure from Dior last year, might come on board as Creative Director. This is what Cathy Horyn gleaned of the status quo in her conversation with Della Valle this week.
"Asked if he might consider John Galliano, Mr. Della Valle pulled a good poker face. There have been rumors, he said: “One week it’s Galliano, the next it’s someone else.” He expects to hire someone by September. Finding someone with the skill for Schiaparelli is hard enough, but many designers are used to perks and big budgets, and these don’t seem things they will find in a brand trying to create a new experience"
Farida Khelfa who has been appointed spokesperson for the Schiaparelli relaunch (image from www.zimbio.com)
Anna Wintour appeared on the Colbert Show this week. Among the topics they spoke about as President Obama's announcement in support of Gay Marriage, which came this week (yay!). Wintour said "I am thrilled. There were tears in the office atVogue today in the support of gay marriage. We're thrilled about the president". Wintour also discussed how Prada was so much more than what the Devil wears and how tempted she was to don trackie bottoms and eat chips. I'm very sad to report that I cannot find a working video of the interview yet.
Shoe King Christian Louboutin is expanding his business with plans to enter the beauty market it was revealed today. He is joining up with Batallure Beauty LLC. Their co-chairman is Robin Burns, a longtime fan of the iconic red-soled shoes. The admiration is mutual; Louboutin chose the company because he felt Burns understood him best. THe line, Christian Louboutin Beaute, will launch late next year. And the muse? Egyptian Queen Nefertiti.
Louboutin's beauty inspiration Queen Nefertiti (image from jezebel.com)
Finally, Dolce and Gabbana's "Italiana: An Italian Style Comedy" feels like a rather fun way to start the weekend...
One of the many oddities of working in fashion is that we get two chances to talk about trends. For Spring/Summer 2012, the first chance came in September/ October last year when designers were showing their collections for the forthcoming season, which is NOW. Meaning that the time has come to revisit and properly embrace what we saw seven months ago by actually buying into what we fell in love with on the catwalks - whether it's the designer real deal or the high street's interpretation.
As is the FEAL way, we told you what you'd be buying now as soon as we spotted it on the catwalk but that was a long time ago. We thought that you might like to look back at our first thoughts on SS12 now that we can all get in on the action...
This trend was so huge we did two posts on it . Unsurprisingly, it's all over the high street. Our favourite is Jaeger Boutique's bright white, ribbon waisted dress. This would see you through all manner of Summer pursuits, just don't go rolling in the grass.
Print is still huge. Florals are a classic but if you want to be exactly on the SS12 pulse then a silky paisley or tropical jungle print are the ones to go for...
This one was never going to be easy to translate - who has time to encrust their spine with pearls each morning or carry about clusters of coral to work a trend? Nods to sea life with watery colours, embellishments and rope details seems like the most sensible way to channel the SS12 mermaid fantasy. Unless you have a fancy dress party coming up, in which case, go all out.
Pearls backstage at Chanel (from http://somethingfrench.tumblr.com/)
Alexander McQueen SS12- coral encrusted mermaids (catwalking.com)
A quick scout of the shops this weekend threw up plenty of evidence that crop tops are a trend pretty much every high street store has plumped for. We shared 8-minute abs with you at the time but really, who is actually ready for this? If you're not a 15 year old gymnast then maybe proceed with caution e.g a looser crop top worn over a high waist skirt/ short or under a skinny vest.
Two of the biggest colours for SS12. I am brightening up today in a Peeps colour jumper. The combination of the two, like wearing your very own seaside horizon, was done most brilliantly by Jonathan Saunders.
The entire British Fashion industry fled London for Oxfordshire this morning to celebrate (a.k.a get first dibs on the best bargains) at the opening of this year's British Designers Collective at Bicester Village-the super luxe shopping outlet not so far from the Big Smoke.
Alexa Chung was on hand get proceedings underway alongside many of the designers whose wares will be available in The Great Hall for the next couple of months. Of course, Bicester provides many more opportunities for credit card flexing apart from the BDC. So, plenty of tweeters were also getting in on the Celine, Marni and Prada action while they were there. We've found some of the best pictures posted on Twitter from the event...
Alexa Chung in her Bella Freud jumper (from @BFC)
Alexa outside the BDC store with Harold Tilman (Chairman of the BFC) and Desiree Bollier (CEO of Bicester' owner Value Retail Management)
Alexa with some of the designers taking part in the BDC, including Pauric Sweeney, Justin Thornton of Preen and Bella Freud.
Inside The Great Hall which is housing the collective (from @ELLEUK)
Jonathan Saunders Bird Print (from @BFC)
The goodie bag (from @BFC)
Mawi jewellery at BDC (from @fashionnewsed)
And the Celine, of course...
Denim dress judged by @LauraCraik to be the best thing going in the Celine outlet, down from £770 to £330
And the bags, for those wanting to flaunt their Celine-ness in the most un-Philo like way (via @LauraCraik)
