Tuesday, June 12, 2012


Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Fashion has long been the haven of some of society's most diverse and original figures. Its reputation for welcoming the weird, the wonderful and the avant-garde goes way back. It's how fashion stays new. So in many ways it's strange that we even need All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, the initiative run by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne and Erin O'Connor. But the reality is now that fashion mostly demands models who are very tall, very young, very thin and very white- a narrow ideal of beauty which is just one of the many troubling issues our society as a whole has with body image.

This morning, I went along to All Walks' forum at Graduate Fashion Week where tutors from fashion schools across the country gathered together to tell each other how they're engaging their students in looking at bodies and beauty in a different way. Mal Burkinshaw from Edinburgh College of Art told us about his project 'Body Talk 2012' where he explored the kind of words his students used to describe different bodies represented in art. At Ravensbourne, students have created a site where anyone can upload unretouched images of themselves which they love while in Bournemouth, glamorous older model Valerie Pain has been used in a photo shoot and in the catwalk show of some of the design graduates.

Valerie Pain wearing a design by Johanna Wulf from the Arts College, University of Bournemouth (
This is all fantastic-if sometimes a bit tokenistic- and at least it is positive to see design schools engaging with the concept that the current favourite catwalk model ideal might not be the only option. All Walks is also expanding on the work already done by tutors by launching a competition called Diversity NOW which will enlist students to create campaigns for a wider range of body and beauty ideals. However, for students who need to get a job out of university it's not very practical for them to use a model who's not the norm to show their pieces because they simply won't get a job- if they show their final collection on a size 16 model then they are effectively only applying for a job at Evans. Nobody else will take them seriously. And I'm not making this up- the course leaders at this morning's forum all agreed on that point.

What I'm finding hard to get my head round is apparent gap between the academic research on this subject and what's actually happening. After the forum, I spoke to Dr Phillippa Diedrichs who contributed to the recent government report on body image. She says that an increase in diversity does make commercial sense. "When W magazine did a plus size issue, it sold out immediately" she pointed out. Much has been made of research by Ben Barry whose survey of 3,000 women found that they "significantly increase purchase intentions when they see a model that reflects their age, size and race". A quick google search shows that Barry is the founder of a Canadian modelling agency which represents "diverse" models. He's also written a bestselling book on the subject so has considerable commercial interest himself in making these claims.  Nevertheless, the research makes a strong case for the financial rewards of using models of different ages, sizes and races.

Post-baby Kate Moss shot by Mert and Marcus in 2003 (image from www.i-donline.com)
So, is it just too soon for the big changes to have filtered through? In high fashion, the rise of the Asian model has coincided with growing importance of Asian economies as consumers of designer clothes. The brilliant Tricia Jones, publisher of i-D magazine, told this morning's forum that we need to demand realistic images- she cited an exclusive which i-D had of Kate Moss' first shoot after giving birth. She looked amazing- obviously- but was still retouched to erase the evidence of her recent pregnancy, much to Jones' annoyance. "We need real pictures and not the crap they (magazines, ads) are trying to feed us"she argued. I guess the million dollar question is, do we WANT to buy a magazine with a shoot where Kate Moss looks anything less than utterly, unrealistically perfect? I wouldn't mind actually and it'd bridge the gap between retouched shoots and horrid paparazzi caught-looking-a-bit-fat-or-spotty pictures.

We know that plenty of students out there are reading and would love to know if you've had to address body image and diversity in your course and what you think about it being taught.

Monday, June 11, 2012


Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The week before last, the FashEd went along to the Royal College of Art's fashion show where she saw the work of this year's crop of graduates. Like any keen-eyed fashion editor, Melanie had her favourites and we wanted to share some of their work with you today. This week is Graduate Fashion Week so the blog is going to be very 'graduate' orientated as we scout out our favourite graduates from the UK's best design courses and see what they actually get from the four-day event at Earl's Court. We can't wait to get out there and see what's on offer. In the meantime, the RCA grads have come up trumps with some gorgeous imagery and notes, explaining what inspires them and how they have come to their final pieces.


'The main colour inspiration came from my photography, which I used as print in my collection. My shapes follow the casualness of oversized shirts, and the cut is also influenced by traditional Chinese flat garments. I’m interested in using unusual materials and finding new ways of garment making. I’m drawn to traditional Chinese ink painting, with the ink and water penetrates through the paper. That has given me the idea of using silicone to penetrate fabric to join fabrics instead of sewing. The application of silicone became a main feature of my design which allowed minimalist designs.'


Devil-may-care (the name of my collection) was inspired by the juxtaposition between innocence and the unspoken assumptions and persuasions of everyday life. The collection finds parallels in the ritualisms that surround quintessential English horror, with particular reference to the stereotypical virgin sacrifice and the motif work of Irish crochet. Parallels mirrored in the melancholia and strictness of Victoriana through an imposing and imperial pagoda shoulder juxtaposed against a corseted, willowy, lissome and sensual waist. An awkward wide and flaring leg, emphasising an elongated silhouette and ghostly, ethereal/otherworldly quality captured through delicate layering of fine guage devore knits and silks (discharge and devore printed) and fluid cashmere, silk, and traditional wool suiting. Colours are drawn from the the overcast grey-lavender of a forest mist shrouding that which cannot be seen, the black-purple of the night and the reddened umber of the sodden earth. The green hues of moss and fern to the slate greys and damp purple of the heathland heather with subtle/pale and washed out highlights. Reference to eveningwear worn in a nonchalant way emphasising the louche brooding and deeply dark/sexy of a rock star sensibility and the fetishisms of the night.

I studied (BA) Fashion at Kingston University graduating in 2009. After Graduate Fashion Week I pursued my own label after interest from various stockists, including Digitaria, later to become Machine-A, on Berwick St. At this point, I applied to the Royal College of Art (MA) Fashion Menswear course. During my time at the College I was awarded the prestigious Brioni Award.


The Tom Crisp man celebrates a raw and powerful youth aesthetic. Inspired by the graffiti artist Delta, Jose Perla and Gus Van Sant body of work, the 2012 menswear collection includes modern tailoring through to a distressed and deconstructed casual look. A make do attitude resonates throughout the collection; especially in pieces that are deconstructed from the original garment and remade into modern silhouettes. This appropriation method surfaces with denim tees from denim jackets, a remade nylon parka and an Airforce jacket made into trousers. A layered silhouette evokes a 90s grunge attitude while the slim cuts of the suits add a rock edge. Throughout the collection angular planes of fabric disintegrate into distressed surfaces. Raw edges create a dishevelled look helped by texture play with ripped leather and denim hand painted to look like a wall of graffiti. The cotton and denim base is enhanced by silk, linen and mohair jacquard weaves in suits and a luxe parka. Industrial shine is provided by cropped nylon parkas and knitted nylon jumpers. Colours are murky, taking their cues from rusty metal. Ranging from deep purples, inky blues and military green through to rusty oranges and bright turquoise provided by glossed, verdigris copper powder. Rusted iron is used on a deconstructed suit to continue a raw feel and to add a new texture dimension.


I was born and raised in Manchester where I studied Fashion Design at the Manchester Metropolitan University. Whist studying in Manchester, I completed an internship with Roland Mouret. After graduating, I moved to London to pursue a career in outerwear design working for a high street supply company, which taught me much about the business side of fashion. I then went on to study my Masters in Womenswear Fashion Design at the Royal College of Art in 2010. Whist studying at the Royal College I also got the opportunity to help out in Richard Nicoll's studio. I enjoy bringing out the dark side of women, my designs are lead by an obsession with the female form and architecture.


Friday, June 8, 2012


Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Bethan is out and about in the countryside today working with a brand, while I am off on my first trip to The Hay Festival with Mary who is speaking there tomorrow, (5.30pm at Barclays Pavilion if you're interested). She is presenting, in my humble opinion, her best lecture on the true nature of value in modern British society. I never fail to be moved and inspired by it. This afternoon I'm booked in to see Andrew Marr speak, followed by my secret intellectual crush Alain de Botton presenting short "How To" lectures from his School of Life series.

This follows an inspiring night with Ari Seth Cohen and his bevy of couture clad, peacockishly glam grandmas to launch his Advanced Style book, a spin off from his fabulously original blog of the same name. It was fab to see Sasha (Liberty London Girl) and her mother, Victoria; Navaz (Disney Roller Girl), Fred (Fred Butler Style), Allison (Thats Not My Age) at the launch which was at Mary's House of Fraser store on Oxford Street. Photos and chat with Ari to come. In the meantime, I wanted to share this truly awesome and inspirational fashion film from Nowness.com by Santiago and Mauricio Sierra with you.

Have a happy weekend!


She’s Electric

Santiago and Mauricio Hit the Gas in Their High-Speed Neon Short

Pop photography and filmmaking siblings Santiago and Mauricio Sierra take us on a high-octane night ride starring a vamped-up Alana Zimmer in their latest short, She’s Electric. Looking back on growing up in the 80s, the brothers drew inspiration from Japanese anime, Atari video games and Disneyland’s Space Mountain attraction to create the retro imagery. “We remembered watching ET and Back to the Future, and when our dad got the first Mac,” says Santiago. “It was an interesting time where new technology was shaping the vision of the future.” Previously creating color-bursting fashion shoots and sparkling campaigns for the likes of Interview magazine and Dior, Santiago and Mauricio cast otherworldly Canadian model Zimmer as their “perfect future 80s character” to sport the head-turning spring/summer beauty looks from makeup artist Romy Soleimani. “What we do isn’t film, it’s images in motion. It’s the new photography,” explains Santiago of their post-production-heavy technique. Adds Mauricio: “People can recreate entire universes out of nothing, and that’s one of the things we love to play with.”

Thursday, June 7, 2012


Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large 

One of my favourite online fashion shopping destinations is MyTheresa.com. They always have the iconic editorial fashion pieces of the season in stock; mainly because their rather awesome fashion director Justin O'Shea recognises a key fashion piece on sight, and then has the savvy to buy them in quantity. 

In actual fact, I've just bought the Givenchy silver biker sandals I've had my eye on all season from MyTheresa, and at a very agreeable price too as their 50% off summer sale began today. Right there in the above sentence is another reason why I love MyTheresa. Price is a key factor: they buy fantastically edgy fashion pieces from labels you don't often find online, and even charged at full RRP the item will be slightly less than the cost in GBP/££, so once in sale they become too good a bargain to pass up!

The Munich based high fashion website grew out of a bricks and mortar shop named, appropriately enough, Theresa, which is owned by husband and wife team Susanne and Christoph Botschen. Theresa launched 24 years ago; locally the Botschens were seen as pioneers for bringing luxurious European and American labels into Munich. Now, internationally the site is known for its great selection of brands and eye for European style that swoops across from Balenciaga accessories to Miu Miu, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent runway collections with much more besides. A lot of what you see on the site feels like a rare find because many of the luxury brands will only agree to sell online if the website also has a bricks and mortar store. If you haven't switched on to MyTheresa yet, I suggest you give it a whirl. Here is what I would be buying right now if I wasn't somewhat physically compromised due to being pregnant.  Givenchy glittery sandals will have to keep me going until then....  
Carven dress £234 from £333
Mary Katrantzou blazer £1,404 to £983

Dolman cashmere cardigan £359 to £252
Givenchy sandals £513 to £330

Erdem blouse £550 to £385

Marchesa Notte cocktail dress £702 to £422

Peter Pilotto shirt £504 to £353
Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony skirt £437 to £263

Samantha Sung blouse £269 to £189

Jason Wu jumper £719 to £432

Wednesday, June 6, 2012


Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's here! We brought you news back in January that Louis Vuitton would be collaborating with Japan's greatest living artist and queen of polka dots, Yayoi Kusama. Now, we've seen Tate Modern's brilliant exhibition (which finished yesterday but is now going to New York) and we were getting tad impatient to see what Marc Jacobs and Kusama had come up with for the collection which is a continuation of Vuitton's work with artists, we all remember Murakami and Sprouse, right?

Well, I was poking about online earlier and came across these images on Trendland which finally show us what the Infinitely Dots collection is going to look like. Dots are what we expected and dots are what we get, whether they're in muted colours on a structured tee or bold, bright and classically Kusama on bow ballet pumps and perspex bangles.
I love that there is a dot interpretation for every taste- there's in-your-face pieces which play to Kusama's almost childlike obsession with the bright colours and bold graphics of the spot. But then there are more pared back, luxe interpretations like the monochrome sunglasses (in the top picture) with their round, sixties shape and gold detailing. Whatever guise they come in, if you know Kusama's work then you'll recognise her input in each piece.

It's a bit puzzling that the collection's official website doesn't show the product yet, despite the fact that it's on a couple of websites. Nevertheless, the site does give those new to Kusama an insight into her life and there's also an interview with Vuitton main man Marc Jacobs whose idea it was for the label to collaborate with artists. He says '"It continues something I began when I came here which is the idea of art and collaboration, or collaboration with artists. For many people who don't look at art or go to galleries, or maybe they're not aware of Kusama's work, there will be a new venue, a new place to see this work and to come to appreciate it through the eyes of Louis Vuitton."

If you remember the previous collaborations, then you'll know that part of the deal is that the distinct LV monogram gets a makeover from the artist- in these images we can see that Vuitton's luggage bag styles have been covered in dots and made in shiny, tactile fabrics.

Self Obliteration (1967) by Yayoi Kusama (image from www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern)
Also, is it weird or fabulous that the images feature a model who looks like a younger version of Yayoi? She has frequently used herself in her work and that fringe is pretty iconic- I think the photos are really fun but it also feels a bit like they're trying to recreate a Yayoi original.

The first drop from the Infinitely Dots collaboration is out on July 11th- it'll be mostly pyjamas, trench coats and jewellery with the second drop in October. Prepare for dot mania!

All images from www.trendland.com

Tuesday, June 5, 2012


Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

It was the CFDAs last night. or Council of Fashion Designer of America Awards. Yeah, the acronym is much easier. Just wanted to point this out really.  Also that for the first time ever, the CFDAs are available from right about now to view on Style.com, with my friend and neighbour Tim Blanks hosting from the red carpet. According to the CFDA itself, the actual digital broadcast “will feature the awards ceremony from red carpet highlights and interviews through the final bow of the night."
It's a big deal in NYC, and always interesting to see who wins what, even just to understand the politics of the occasion. The winners are below, and definitely reflect the more populist format it has adopted with Style.com. Interesting to see Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) and his girlfriend Garance Dore  win a joint award for their separate blogs. Also the billionaire former child star twin sisters Mary Kate and Ashley were deemed worthy of the Womenswear Designer of the Year title for their luxury fashion brand The Row. The last item of theirs I loved was a white leather rucksack with gold hardware which cost $17k. I didn't buy. In Britain the equivalent award last year went to Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. Hmm. I like The Row stuff, and the Olsen's have fantastic taste, but Designers of the Year? Rei Kawakubo of Commes des Garcons picked up the International Award, but the designer considers awards as irrelevent, so didn't come to pick it up.

Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row looking very chuffed with their award last night (via myfdb.com)


Womenswear Designer of the Year Award: Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for the Row
Menswear Designer of the Year Award: Billy Reid
Accessory Designer of the Year Award: Reed Krakoff
Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Womenswear: Joseph Altuzarra
Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Menswear: Phillip Lim
Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in Accessory Design: Tabitha Simmons
The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Tommy Hilfiger
The Media Award, in honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Scott Schuman and Garance Doré
The Fashion Icon Award: Johnny Depp
The Founders Award, given in honor of Eleanor Lambert: Andrew Rosen
The International Award: Rei Kawakubo

Monday, June 4, 2012


Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

There are still two days left of our extra long bank holiday weekend, so we thought we'd let you know our top picks of fashionable things to see and do in all this magical free time we've been granted. If you should you need a break from all the union jack waving and cupcake eating, here are our suggestions of things to see in London right now...


Following the rationing and hardships of WWII, Britain's textile reinvention is brought to life in this exhibit at The Fashion and Textile museum in Bermondsey. It focuses on designers Lucienne Day, Jacqueline Groag and Marian Mahler whose work is about as much of a departure from floral, cutesy, quintessentially English prints as is possible. A great tie-in with this weekend's 1950s nostalgia but from a less overdone angle.

Designing Women is on at the Fashion and Textile Museum until 16th June

Lucienne Day and her quirky textile designs (image from www.fetchingthings.com)


Anybody vaguely art literate will be familiar with Picasso's work. Tate Britain presents a new angle by examining the influence his work has had on Brit artists such as Francis Bacon, David Hockney and Henry Moore.

Picasso and Modern British Art is on at Tate Britain until 15th July

One of the works on show... Picasso's Three Dancers (image from http://swowen9.blogspot.co.uk)

You don't get more iconic than a Louboutin red sole, it's hard to believe that they've been around only twenty years, so ingrained is his aesthetic. What was a world without the ultimate red sole even like? The definitive exhibition for lovers of footwear full of glamour and va va boom.

Christian Louboutin is on at the Design Museum until 9th July

Dream shoes... Louboutins by Khuong Nguyen (image from www.searchingforstyle.com)

One of the V&A's big exhibitions this year and another nod to the Jubilee celebrations. The FashEd has seen this and tells me it's a must-see. Spanning everything from the 1948 'Austerity' Olympic Games through to 70s Punk and 90s Cool Brittania as well as much much more in-between this is a comprehensive look at the defining design concepts to have come out of Blighty since a little before the Queen came to the throne.

British Design: Innovation in the Modern Age is on at the V&A until 12th August

Sex Pistols' punk iconography (image from fastyling.blogspot.co.uk)

Walking around London, it soon become pretty obvious that around every corner a new culture and its influences can be discovered. This show, which forms part of the Culturl Olympiad, at the Horniman looks at many of the ways Londoners chose to express themselves and the cultures they identify with, whether that's wearing  sari, getting a tattoo or having our nails done.

The Body Adorned is on at The Horniman until 6th January 2013

Urban Street portraits by young people, part of The Body Adorned (image from horseman.ac.uk)

Friday, June 1, 2012


 Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Our usual round-up of the week's news is taking on a new guise today. In celebration of the Diamond Jubilee, we're talking all things Queen related, from her corgis to the new look Donatella is proposing for her...

In a recent interview with The Sunday Times, Stewart Parvin, the Queen's dress designer for the past 11 years, has given some fascinating insights into the behind-the-scenes operation which ensures Her Majesty never has a wardrobe slip-up.

“[The shoes] have to be immediately comfortable . . . She does get someone to wear them. The Queen can never say, ‘I’m uncomfortable, I can’t walk any more.’ She has the right to have someone wear them in.”

“She does drop on the shoulder slightly, as people do, so we put an extra pad in one shoulder,that’s the kind of thing we do for most people.People have one arm longer than the other, one leg longer, so that’s what the fittings are for, to make sure everything’s as perfect as it can be.”

“Every dress has got a name — we’ll get that in an email. It’s the only way we know which is which. There is one called Buttercup, which is a really popular one. So they can ask, ‘Have you got Buttercup?’ ‘Oh it’s that yellow dress!’ The one thing that she likes, so she wears it a lot.  Then they catalogue where the outfit has been worn — so if she was going to meet President [Barack] Obama, she wouldn't wear the same dress. That’s why people will think she wears things once, because there’s such a system.”

The Queen in her favourite yellow hue (image from royal-splendor.blogspot.com)
“She does like quite an outrageous print. Things that are bold suit her, and she knows that”
Her Majesty's version of 'outrageous' (image from thetimes.co.uk)
Donatella Versace appeared at the Oxford Union this week where she was interviewed by the brilliant Tim Blanks. Among the questions he asked was who the designer, known for her sexy, skin baring designs, would like to dress. Her answer? "If I could dress anyone I'd like to dress the Queen - she can handle anything. I'd put her in black - she never wears black - and add a little leather, maybe. A little rock 'n' roll."

Could this be the look the Queen works at Monday's Jubilee concert?
The Queen wears Versace AW12, with a little help from FEAL
In the run-up to Jubilee weekend, many of the Queen's secrets have been uncovered. Ok, so we're not talking hard-hitting scandals here, but more answers to niggling wonderments about how on earth everything seems to always run so smoothly for Elizabeth II...

In The Queen's handbag- a Launer, of course, a handkerchief, lipstick, a tiny mirror and a copy of the day’s programme. However, a Lady-in-Waiting is always on hand with the 'brown bag' which holds a spare pairs of tights, gloves, sweeteners and a moist, lavender-scented cloth in case of extreme heat.

Her Majesty travels everywhere with sixty vials of homeopathic medicine

She drinks only Malvern water- still only. If she is forced to go without then she apparently suffers withdrawl symptoms. 

The royal hairdo has barely changed throughout its sixty years as the Monarch's crowning glory. But ever noticed that there is never a flyaway hair or loose curl? Well, that because 'liquid concrete', so her staff call it, is applied to the Queen's hair to ensure that it remains perfectly styled, even in gale force winds.
Forever loyal to her 'liquid concrete', Her Majesty's style has been almost as
long serving as the woman herself (image from Tatler, June 2012)
And how does Her Majesty avoid Marilyn moments? Well, first of all, the linings of each of her outfits is a size smaller than the outfit itself which keeps everything firmly in place. In addition, small lead weights, usually used on curtains, are sewn into the hem of the Queen's skirts to prevent them flying up in the wind. Genius, non?

If you haven't seen enough pictures of the Queen yet, then The National Portrait Gallery is now hosting The Queen: Art and Image. The exhibition features 60 portraits which sum up her reign up to this weekend's Diamond Jubilee. One of my favourites is this one from 1952, the year of the coronation, by Dorothy Wilding and hand coloured by Beatrice Johnson.

The Queen in 1952 by Dorothy Wilding (image from the times.co.uk)
We all know that the Queen is owner of a full on hareem of corgis (I know that's the wrong collective noun, but it sounds good). Thus, the breed has become inextricably linked to royalty. Anya Hindmarch is celebrating the Jubilee by stationing corgis Linnet and Willow outside her stores around London this weekend. There are also special edition Maud clutches (pretty sure Duchess Kate has a few nf these) which come with paper tiaras and guides to being Queen for a day. Hindmarch has also recruited @Queen_UK- the twitter account which sends tweets as if from her Majesty- to post tweets for her throughout the celebrations. Example tweet:

"Gary Barlow's popped over. He got one a "new song" for one's Diamond Jubilee. What part of "new handbag" wasn't clear?"

Corgis take up residence at Anya Hindmarch (image from Anya Hindmarch on Twitter)

After sixty years on the throne, Tatler decided it was time the Queen had her own cartoon...
Cartoon from Tatler, June 2012
It looks like the amazing weather might be over so Pimms this weekend won't be quite the same. Never fear because we can now make our very own cocktails with Her Majesty's preferred tipple, Dubonnet. Here's how to create a Diamond Dubonnet

25ml Tanqueray gin
50ml Dubonnet
2 drops Orange bitters

Top sparkling English wine or champagne

Garnish: Edible diamonds (available here)


Shake gin, Dubonnet and orange bitters together and then double strain into glass. Top with sparkling English wine or champagne and drop a handful of edible diamonds into the flute

A diamond dubonnet (image from dailymail.co.uk)

One of my favourite tweeters, Derek Blasberg posted this yesterday: "I'm so sad to miss the Jubilee celebrations this weekend in London. I mean, imagine all the puns about queens and crown jewels I could make" Oh Derek, our weekend will be all the poorer for not having your witty commentary on events. However, let's be cheered by the fact that Karl Lagerfeld will be letting us all know his thoughts on French TV channel France 2
King Karl's jubilee illustration (image from fashionista.com)
To round off our Queen news special, we have a video for the proper royal obsessives amongst you; it shows Her Majesty enjoying one of her horses race. A very sweet look at the Queen as a real person and an excellent representation of how brilliant lilac and baby pink look next to one another. We also wanted to put up Cassetteboy's amazing mash-up of Andrew Marr's The Diamond Queen documentary, however I've just seen that it's been taken down due to copyright issues- boo too. Keep checking YouTube to see if it gets reposted, it's most witty. In the mean time, Happy Jubilee weekend from Melanie and myself at FEAL!