The sun has got his hat on AND it's Friday, hurray! Before we all decamp to the park/ pub here's your lowdown of everything that happened in fashion this week...
We'd have loved to give Prada's new video it's very own blog post, but alas there are only so many hours in the day so it takes pride of place at the top of the week's stories. In fashion terms, Cannes is liable to become a bit of a red carpet overdose. So Roman Polanski's short film for Prada, released as part of the festival celebrations, is a refreshing take on how fashion and film can produce properly exciting projects. We love Helena Bonham Carter's self-obsessed character and the power which her luxurious clothes the pearls, the silk blouse, THE FUR- have on Ben Kingsley as her therapist. Here's an extract from Stefano Francia di Celle's reading of the film...
"The fur represents the agreement that supports the relationship between the director and the fashion designer. Polanski is able to display a world which seems more authentic than the real one, thus interpreting and criticizing contemporary society. Prada creates original and non predefined roles for her work and produces a new language that filters into the recesses of traditional culture and leverages the potential of the new media. She is not afraid to produce what could be interpreted as a parody of the celebration of luxury, stigmatizing the world’s elite, the main target of her products"
Watch the video below to see intelligent fashion at its best...
We're not going to reproduce a million images of Diane Kruger and the like at Cannes- you can easily find that elsewhere. Instead I've picked out three girls who are rocking an off kilter look which definitely gets them noticed among the sea of perfect hairdos and flouncy gowns.
Cassie is pretty convention until you see her half shaven head and mermaid waves.
Lace isn't hard to spot in pics from Cannes, such blatant underwear showing off IS Fiona Scarry
Olga Sorkina works a scary face painting (all images from fashionologie.com)
Back in Blighty, the country's creative community gathered on Wednesday night for the Royal Academy's contribution to the Jubilee festivities with their party to celebrate Her Majesty's 60 years on the throne. The event was so star studded that the 24 Dames in attendance had their very own check-in desk. Some of our biggest fashion names including Giles Deacon, Vivienne Westwood, Erdem and Christopher Kane brought along their muses to show off their designs to the Queen. Hockney, who recently had a hit exhibition at the RA produced a drawing for the programme which each guest received. And finally, is it just me, or does Nancy Shevell, wife of Sir Paul McCartney, look like she may be wearing that Issa dress Duchess Kate wore to announce her engagement?
Hockney's drawing which was given to all the guests (from www.thislondon.co.uk)
Ozwald Boateng and John Hurt looking mega dapper (from telegraph.co.uk)
Giles with Jessica Gough (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Her Majesty, in very on trend silver, chats to Sir Paul, in trainers, and Nancy, in her very K-Mid dress.
If there's ANYONE who can strike a pose, it has to be Bryanboy (image from www.zimbio.com)
Thought there wasn't any particular reason that you should visit the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts? Ever heard of it even? Well, there is now an extremely good reason to visit after Iris Apfel, couture collector and official 'rare bird of fashion', donated 900 pieces from her fashion archives to their collection. Among the items Apfel explained why she chose the Peasbody to receive her gift, "I think they’re quite cutting edge. This museum is much more cross-cultural than others I’ve worked with and mixes it up a bit". Among the items now added to that mix are 19th century couture pieces and McQueen creations. Oh, to be the lucky curator who'll get to work amongst it all!
Iris Apfel with Alexis Bittar (image from ohemgeemag.com)
Topshop is just keep exciting collabs coming... We've already been spoilt with Mary Katrantzou, Maarten van der Horst and Richard Nicholl this year and it was announced yesterday that Louise Gray is next up. She will create some simple shaped pieces which reflect her fun, creative and colourful aesthetic as well as make-up- a no brainer really as bold beauty looks are always a key aspect of a Louise Gray show. Louise Gray for Topshop will be available at the end of August- just in time to give us something to smile about in the run up to Winter. Oh, and if there's any room to get in some of Louise's amazing boots then that would be appreciated please, thank you very much Topshop!
Louise Gray AW12 (from www.catwalking.com)
Recommended read: The first students to take Parson's M.F.A qualification are reaching the end of their course. This article from the NY Times looks at the graduates and examines what's in store for them all. There'll be a show at New York Fashion Week where the designers will be able to showcase their work to international press and buyers. It's a great insight into finding the balance between commericality and creativity, as well as how the school positions itself next to Central Saint Martins.
Work by Elisa Van Joolen, Talia Shuvalov and Carly Ellis- some of the designers who showed their graduate collections at an exhibition last week (image from nytimes.com)
Agyness Deyn, who is looking particularly amazing of late in my opinion, has added another string to her modelling/ acting bow with a line of clothing for Dr Martens. The pieces are inspired by 90s couples and the grungy look she's famous for. "I love the style of some of the Nineties' most famous couples, like Johnny Depp and Winona Ryder and Brad Pitt and Juliette Lewis. I love that grungy look, that freeness and real vintage vibe" she told Vogue. While some may say that Agyness must have had help from her good friend Henry Holland, she claims that she actually "forgot to tell him".
Agyness Deyn models her collection for Dr Martens (image from vogue.co.uk)
We're used to editorials pushing the boundaries and this week's big nudge came from Steven Klein and Patti Wilson for Candy magazine who depicted a (we think fake) pregnant male model in bondage gear and holding a gun. Just too much to compute all at once? Genius? A bit of both? What do you think?
Chris Fawcett tied up and up the duff for Candy (image from fashionista.com)
Getting the gun out (image from fashionista.com)
It's sample sale time... Two of the biggies are Erdem and J.W Anderson. Both happening next week...
J.W ANDERSON: June 1, 5-9pm, 73-75 Shacklewell Lane, Studio A007, E8. Cash only.
ERDEM: Tues 29 May (9am-8pm) & Wed 30th May (9am-6pm) at Future Gallery, Covent Garden. AW11 & previous seasons + accessories
And find deets for Jospeh, McQueen, Christopher Kane and more here from Elle
And video of the week goes to Hot Chip for two reasons. 1- Lara Stone's in it (that's the fashion bit) 2- it's directed by Peter Serafinowicz, the genius behind some of my favourite comedy sketches ever, including the Butterfield Diet
Now go forth and enjoy the sun in the knowledge you're well and truly clued up on what's happening in fashion.
It's been another busy week in the fashion world, so before we head off to enjoy our three day Bank Holiday weekend, here's the round-up of all the need to know news from the past seven days...
It's the start of the month which means a flurry of new covers are coming in ready for our enjoyment. Kate Moss (who was apparently drinking at The Groucho until 7am this morning-what a woman) is the incarnation of Versace's modern mermaid on the cover of British Vogue's Gold issue. She was shot by Mert and Marcus, complete with very fat rope (previously seen in a Beckham shot) and underwater-esque background. It's the stuff fashion dreams are made of.
Kate Moss on the cover of June's Vogue (image from Vogue.co.uk)
Meanwhile, iD have two particularly genius covers amongst the eight on offer for the Summer 'Lights, Camera, Action' issue. Julia Restoin Roitfeld is not the first woman to show her bump on a magazine cover but this interpretation of the genre is rather kookier than usual- with Julia clutching a teddy and wearing sexy lingerie in a sumptuous boudoir.
Another cover shows newly appointed Dior designer Raf Simons sheltering from the camera beneath a selection of flowers. The image seems just right for the moment, the flowers symbolising Dior prettiness while the grey and Raf's slightly hidden face hint at the newness and rethinking which is surely to come at the label. There's an accompanying interview where Raf talks about his final Jil Sander collection and what motivates him as a designer. The issue is available next week on the iD site and at shops soon after.
Helena Bonham Carter is having a bit of a moment this month. She has modelled some totally beautiful McQueen and Westwood gowns for Harper's Bazaar's June issue... Here's a Behind the Scenes video from the shoot...
Daniel Radcliffe, with whom Bonham-Carter worked on the Harry Potter films, has interviewed her for, er, Interview. Well it's more of a conversation really, with insights into the lives of both actors. They cover everything from the pressure of having an amazing family to Helena having to audition to be in her quasi-husband (they're only not married because of 'laziness' she says) Tim Burton's Sweeney Todd musical to wearing odd shoes to the Golden Globes. My girl crush on Helena Bonham Carter continues.
Helena Bonham Carter styled by Katie Grand, photographed by Peter Lindbergh (from www.interviewmagazine.com)
All 19 Vogue International editors came together this week to launch their new Health Initiative which will mean that they endeavor to only use healthy models (i.e ones who aren't suffering from an eating disorder) who are over the age of 16 on their pages. Alex Shulman writes in her Editor's Letter that 'as one of the fashion industry's most powerful voices, Vogue has a unique opportunity to engage with relevant issues where we feel we can make a difference'. As the FashEd pointed out in a tweet yesterday, we really hope this excellent policy extends to celebrities as well as models. I wrote more about this issue a few weeks ago. Bravo to Vogue for taking a stand.
Excitement is building for Monday night's Met Gala which will open the much anticipated 'Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations' exhibition. Of course, US Vogue is leading the build-up by looking back at galas in years gone by. First up, Andre Leon Talley, the magazine's rather awesome Editor-at-Large, has chosen his top 10 outfits. He seems to have a predilection for black taffeta and frou frou fairytale given his choices. We're excited to see how Miuccia Prada will play the red carpet celebrity dressing next week. Her AW12 collections showed a serious trouser moment so maybe Mr Leon Talley will be disappointed on the big ballgown front.
Andre's favourites: Rihanna in Dolce and Gabbana in 2009
Andre's favourites: Doutzen Kroes in Zac Posen in 2010 (images from vogue.com)
And in case you haven't been invited, Vogue has given us a peek of how our invite would look if we were on the list. For this year's exhibition, they've nodded to Schiaparelli's association with Surrealism with a lip design. I love the image used on the invite for 2010's 'American Woman'.
Will we get in if we print this out and put on some Prada? (image from vogue.com)
The invite to 2010's 'American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity' (image from Vogue.com)
Australian Fashion Week has been taking place in Sydney this week. We've been enjoying Susie Bubble's posts which are a brilliant mixture of catwalk reports and snippets for getting to know the Australian fashion scene. A We Are Handsome swimming costume is top of my summer shopping list so I was very pleased when this image from their show pinged into my inbox.
Speaking of fashion weeks, street style favourite Anna Dello Russo has become the latest H&M collaborator. Fans of the Vogue Nippon editor will get the chance to emulate her style with a selection of blingtastic accessories. There'll be more on this next week on the blog but it's rather fascinating that it was a stylist/ editor whose look seemed the most relevant to H&M to bring to the masses, rather than another big name designer. The range is out on October 4th, just after fashion month ends
Anna Dello Russo modelling some pieces from her collection (image from telegraph.co.uk)
There was a glimmer of hope in the continuing race to save Aquascutum this week as it emerged that exclusive talks were underway to sell the business to Hong Kong based YGM Trading. Unfortunately this doesn't provide much hope for those who were left out of work after the Corby factory was shut. There are separate talks being held to sell that asset. If the brand loses its Made in Britain element, it will be a great shame.
Ellen Von Unwerth and Claudia Schiffer at Guess's 30th Birthday bash (image from THE LOVE magazine's twitter)
The Sunday Times' annual Rich List was released last weekend. It helps confirm what we already know from the trickle of news and figures which we see each week... luxury is still booming but retail is a hard environment. Mulberry owner Christina Ong rose 53 places to 61, but Britain's biggest retail magnate, Phillip Green lost £900 million of his fortune last year, ouch.
Karl Lagerfeld has been brought in to redesign the exterior of the Hotel Metropole in Monte Carlo. Reaffirming that he is a man of many talents, in case there was any doubt. To whet our appetite for the unveiling of the first phase in July, Lagerfeld has released some frescos starring his favourite male model Baptiste Giabconi...
Inspiration for the new Hotel Metropole (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Manish Arora has mysteriously ended his thus far successful tenure at Paco Rabanne it was revealed today. The label had become relevant trend wise as well as gaining attention thanks to Lady Gaga wearing some pieces at the MTV awards in 2011.'Revisiting the Paco Rabanne fashion was a very enriching experience and an exceptional artistic and human adventure. I am, today, happy to have accomplished the mission I was trusted with in order to cast this iconic brand back into the spotlight', Arora told WWD.
We leave you with a gorgeous backstage video from Alexander McQueen's AW12 show... Happy Weekend!
Happy Friday Fashion People. I'm afraid today is a somewhat condensed version of our news round-up after we were caught up in this afternoon's drama on Tottenham Court Road.
Our main story this week involves American jeweller (and CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award runner-up) Pamela Love, Chanel and a particularly astute law student...
Pamela Love's gem encrusted bangles....
And the Chanel version (images from www.fashion-law.org)
Back in March, Julie Zerbo wrote a blog post pointing out the uncanny similarity between a bangle shown during the Chanel AW12 show and a design by Pamela Love. Zerbo highlighted her blog post to Fashionista. They picked up the story and, ta dah, within 24 hours Chanel had pledged not to produce the bracelet 'out of respect for the concerns raised'. This seems to us like a pretty major development in the ongoing saga of copying. We see it day in, day out. It's perhaps particularly unfair to young designers who have their ideas ripped off by massive companies who go on to make mega money while the young designer continues to struggle through establishing their business (AND receive no credit). Zerbo's Fashion Law blog could be the fashion industry's future vanguard against these happenings- and how amazing that she is just a 25 year-old student- Go Julie!
Alistair Carr (image from www.grahamfudger.co.uk)
Not much more than a year after his appointment, Alistair Carr has left Pringle. The brand, which shows at LFW, apparently plans to reduce its presence with smaller presentations. The current in-house designers will now lead the label's creative direction.
Giles Deacon, designer of the year (image from wmagazine.com)
FEAL is sending good wishes and massive, well deserved congratulation to Giles Deacon who was awarded Designer of the Year award at the World Fashion Awards in Moscow earlier this week. His sumptuously medieval AW12 show was a fashion week highlight for me. The mythical brocade and burnt out ballgowns were standouts.
Natalia Vodianova on the cusp of scoffing an eclair! (www.modelinia.tumblr.com)
Natalia Vodianova sparked controversy at the Vogue Festival last week when she stood up for skinny models. 'C'mon guys, you know it's better to be skinny than to be fat' she said, before going on to point out how much the NHS is spending on increasing levels of obesity. Although Vodianova's comments shouldn't detract from the very troubling issue of too-skinny models, I do think she has a point about putting society's problems into context.
Coco looking cute in clothes (image from www.fashiongonerogue.com)
Ever so cute and in-demand model Coco Rocha has condemned Elle Brazil this week after they apparently photoshopped away part of a body suit she was wearing in a cover shoot for the magazine. This meant that they breached the terms of her contract which has strict nudity clauses. As Coco's not happy, we won't be reproducing the picture here.
Donatella with her late brother Gianni (image from time.com)
"It is with tremendous emotion that I return to the Ritz where I shared so many special moments with my brother. The closing of the Ritz Paris for two years represents the end of an era but also the beginning of a new one, so to be able to show Atelier Versace there one last time will be a memorable milestone."
Lulu Kennedy, founder of Fashion East (johnpaulpryor.tumblr.com)
Loving this interview with super suave Tinie Tempah. Favourite line? 'I'm not sure what I'm there for really, I guess they are pimping me out' (on his partaking in the Menswear 2012 committee for the BFC
It's the Met Gala next week which will see the launch of the museum's Prada/ Schiaparelli exhibition. Everyone from Vogue will apparently be wearing pink in homage to Elsa Sciaparelli's favourite colour. It seems Rihanna and Claire Danes got the memo early...
Claire Danes in Narciso Rodriguez (from nytimes.com)
Rihanna in Vivienne Westwood- a lovely change from her normal look (from dailymail.co.uk)
Finally, video of the week is Jospehine de la Baume and her brother Alex talking about their new band Singtank for farfetch.com. Their music sounds like perfect weekend listening...
Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.
Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)
For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.
Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)
So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!
Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)
While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...
Stefano Pilati gets hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)
Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)
There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.
Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)
The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely, a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd, a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.
Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)
"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"
Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time.
Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)
The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour.
Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)
Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)
Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)
Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?
Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.
