LONDON MENSWEAR DAY AW12: MATTHEW MILLER - iFASHION

(Josh interned with FEAL over London Fashion Week, and here are his final two Mens Fashion Week reviews)

Guest Post by Joshua Drew of Noir Official

Matthew Miller is a new name on the London menswear scene. The introduction of this Royal College of Art MA Graduate to the schedule this year saw his first standalone show presented at the Portico Rooms of Somerset House.

Having previously presented as part of Fashion East, Miller has demonstrated his interest in combining technology with great menswear design. This season he fused the two in a collection entitled 'Expedition'. 

Matthew Miller AW12

 City Perforation work was one of the surfaces which inspired Miller's collection

iPhone QR barcodes were available to scan during the show. When scanned we were able to retrace Miller’s steps around London. These codes took us to webpages showing the exact location of each individual print and the building, object or landscape it was taken from. Prints inspired by everyday surfaces that we might not usually give a second thought to were transformed into eye-catching macs, single-breasted jackets and slim fit trousers.

Miller's combination of savvy digital tools and fashion is truly innovative. His interest in combining technology and design not only translated his ideas quite literally, but also interactively to the audience. The way that Miller embraces the opportunities offered by the likes of the iPhone shows a fresh attitude to showing fashion which moves with a phenomenon which influences every aspect of our lives. His example shows how fashion can take full advantage of up to the minute technology to enhance the experience of viewing a collection. 

Tree bark found in Hyde Park inspired single-breasted jackets and shirts. 

Surfaces such as concrete, bark, chip board (which Miller had spotted covering shop windows during the August riots) and eroding marble were all used to represent the textures of London. As an intrepid explorer, Miller’s man also needed some sturdy footwear. In collaboration with Oliver Sweeney, the London inspired prints were transferred onto boots.

Matthew Miller AW12

Matthew Miller still has room to grow, but the ambition this new London designer is showing in combining technology and functional fashion leaves me interested to know what direction he'll be taking next season. 

LONDON MENSWEAR DAY AW12: JAMES LONG, ALL IN THE DETAIL

Guest post by Joshua  Drew, from Noir

The finale at James Long AW12

After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2007, James Long debuted his collection at MAN, a Topman sponsored platform, that same year. His own label has since gone from strength to strength and Long has become the first menswear designer to receive an award from Fashion Forward (a growing scheme funding selected new design talent in London).  He also has lucrative consultancy work with Versace. What’s most exciting, however, is how well James Long combines his creativity with a knowledge of what his customer wants (and needs). 

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

Inspired by surrealist film maker David Lynch and the scars excavated quarries leave on the face of the earth, Long demonstrated focus on detail through intricate and unusual embroidery for his AW12 offering. Collars were adorned with gold work by British embroidery company Hawthorne & Heaney and the final product proved just why James Long is credited for being innovative without forgetting the necessity for wearability. Garments weren't overly conceptual, and even if you can't quite see yourself in an embroidered shirt, the cut was undeniably sleek. Sartorial elements were taken and translated into a language that spoke clearly to a younger audience.

James Long AW12 (from catwalking.com)

Edward Burtynsky's photography on quarries. 

Outerwear came in the form of aviator jackets, some with quilted leather, others with shearling trims. But what really took my breath away this season was James Long’s knitwear. He has always been honest about his passion for creating great knits for men. The mix of gold thread with wool brought the excavated quarry inspiration into sharp focus. Every man should have a James Long jumper. The use of gold thread was minimal enough to speak to the man who appreciates detail, without alienating those for whom a full on gold jumper is a fashion leap too far. James Long may very well have his ideal man firmly in his head, but elements of his collections are opening up to not just one man, but many men. Personally, I would like one of everything please!

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN'S DAY: J.W ANDERSON AW12 - AN ISOLATED MAN

Note from Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Recent journalism graduate Joshua Drew has been interning with us at FEAL for the last fortnight, and in that time his flair and passion for menswear has been so infectious, I just had to assign him the task of covering Men's Fashion Day in London on Wednesday. So while I was in the recovery position following London Fashion Week, Mr. Drew hit town.

Guest Post for Fashion Editor at Large by Joshua Drew 

J.W Anderson fuelled the fire of menswear on Wednesday, and boy was it a scorcher!  As the first menswear designer to showcase his new collection, entitled ‘Chamber of Isolation’, the venue was claustrophobic to the backdrop of heavy industrial beats. A spooky start to a theatrical collection. Fitting considering Anderson’s background in theatre.

A fitting venue for a show entitled 'Chamber of Isolation' in the old Central St Martins building. 

If the music didn’t have you shaking in your boots then you were most certainly moonwalking, as footwear, in collaboration with Aldo Rise, came in white or black leather mixed with plaid wool. Trousers came in the form of flares, a trippy throwback to the 80s with zip detailing, a theme throughout menswear which we’re loving this season.

J.W Anderson AW12  (photos: catwalking.com)

“I keep asking myself, does menswear exist anymore?” said Anderson in typically rhetorical form backstage. “Everything seems so sartorial nowadays. Menswear is dry. It needs a certain awkwardness about it.” Anderson seemed like just the right candidate to shake things up a little. His gender bending designs steered far away from any sartorial references and instead injected quilted skirts over leather flares. Potentially not every man's dream wardrobe staple and not a new concept for Anderson. Yet it was his knitwear pieces with their rope detail embellishment which proved most wearable this season. You wouldn't have to be a typical Anderson man to pull off one of these statement items.

J.W Anderson AW12 (photo: catwalking.com)

Inspired by the idea of bad taste and good taste he certainly left his collection open to criticism.  His man was futuristic, moody and isolated. Yet Anderson, true to form, struck a confident and rebellious collection. Who doesn’t love a rebel? 

(Photo: Fashion Editor at Large)