Thursday, April 19, 2012

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO BRING BACK HOLLYWOOD'S HEYDAY SHOES

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

You might think press days are mostly about looking at lots of lovely clothes, bags and shoes- quite often they are- but at the best ones you learn something new. This morning, I went to Salvatore Ferragamo's AW12 presentation. Their mainline collection is perfectly on trend for AW12, inspired by the luxe side of Russian history- think Tsars and Princesses wrapped in gold threaded embroidery and astrakhan (the hideous fur taken from the bodies of unborn lambs).  Aside from this, the Italian family business famed for its shoes and leather goods since the 1920s has revived several of its iconic designs from the past. Today, I have learnt all about them.
A Ferragamo ad from the late 30s (image from www.blog.stylesight.com)

My favourites are these chunky heeled gold disc mosaic sandals which were made for Brazillian Samba star and Hollywood actress Carmen Miranda in the late 30s. I can just imagine wearing these on holiday with a crop top and some kind of huge flower/ fruit piece of jewellery. They seem sort of timeless, like they could work just as well now as they might have done on stage in the 40s or at Studio 54 in the 70s.
Salvatore Ferragamo originally made the gold mosaic sandal for Carmen Miranda (www.wikifeet.com)
There are platforms which look like they might be crafted from foam to make you bounce along as you wear them. They're architectural, as all good shoes should be. In my research this afternoon, I learnt that Ferragamo did courses in Human Anatomy at the University of Southern California so that he could fully understand how to make the perfect shoe to complement the foot's bone structure. These are versions of one of Ferragamo's most famous styles- the Rainbow- which he made for Judy Garland.



As the most in-demand shoemaker of the mid-century, Ferragamo was, of course, called upon to do shoes for Marilyn Monroe. The company is re-launching the very sleek mid stiletto which she made her own this July (along with the other designs shown here) and there will also be a special exhibition at the label's museum in Florence.
Marilyn Monroe in her Ferragamos (image from www.museoferragamo.it)

The Marilyn heel has been resurrected in lots of colours 

 FERRAGAMO AW12...

Mega glam lace heels from the AW12 show

If you look close enough, you'll see that star signs represented on this mega opulent necklace. 
All images by Fashion Junior at Large, unless otherwise stated.

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

COLOUR.... MY EYES ARE DANCING

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Bright eyes... Meadham Kirchhoff beauty looks from AW12 (image from www.lloyd-evans.com)
Maybe it's the sudden turn in the weather from bright to dismal, or perhaps it's the amount of time the FashEd and I spend looking at the specifics of colour in our consultancy projects, or it could be that walking into most stores at the moment involves being confronted with such powerful, undiluted palettes. Whatever it is, my eyes have become addicted to complete overdoses of rich and saturated tones, whether it is the tangerine neon of the jumper I bought the other day, or the bloody rich maroon in J.W Anderson's AW12 collection, the picture of which I just cannot stop looking at. I feel like the pastel trend which so dominated the SS12 catwalks hasn't quite hit my consciousness yet. In fact, in a few weeks time these could become a diluted antidote to the intensity which is pervasive in my mind right now.

My colour obsession... JW Anderson AW12 (image from catwalking.com)
The road to York through Sledmere by David Hockney 1997 (from www.hockneypictures.com)
It was on a visit to the Royal Academy's David Hockney exhibition (a few days before it closed) a couple of weeks ago that I felt like my colour channel was  properly attuned. The only way I can even begin to describe the feeling of looking at a Hockney painting is that it makes your eyes dance, so vibrant are the colours and the ways they're combined. The images which I have included here do not even begin to visually describe the effect of seeing a Hockney original. I would love to know how he achieves this insanely concentrated bouncing-off-the-canvas-it's-so-bright effect.  His eye transforms the gentle browns greys and greens of the natural landscape into cyan blue leaves, lilac roads and pink skies. They're delicious and unexpected combinations.
More felled trees on Woldgate by David Hockney 2008 (from www.hockneypictures.com)

And the book I most want to read right now? A Pantone Colour Book. Odd, I know given 
that I'm more often found with my nose buried in classic literature but the thought of looking
 at that faded, brownish paper and uniform black type just makes my heart sink, especially
 when I could be poring over seven pages of 'pink' representations. 

I like to think that this new found colour obsession might be my version of patriotism, 
given the upcoming Jubilee, bear with me here. One of the highlights of this month's 
Vogue is the back page on which the magazine charts Her Majesty's colour choices 
over the course of a year. It looks to me like The Queen might also be a fan of the Pantone 
book, so considered are her head-to-toe choices of hue, from the palest of lemon curd 
yellows to the rubiest of Wizard of Oz reds she seems to have worked her way through 
them all. I can imagine her handing her circled colour choices to her dressmaker Angela 
Kelly as reference guide to her latest outfit creation.  

Devastatingly, I don't have my own Angela Kelly to rustle up something in my latest
 colour whim so I will amuse myself a while longer looking at my new favourite Tumblr,
 RAINBOW C-O-L-O-U-R-S

The Queen in colour (image from www.dailymail.co.uk)